Aotearoa, Travel, Wellington

Lambton Quay In Wellington

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Lambton Quay In Wellington– Buy 

By the time I arrived in Wellington it was later than I had anticipated. On my way from Palmerston North I made a number of stops along the way and while none of them were long in duration, they had all added up to making me quite a bit later than scheduled. After navigating the motorway and the various one way systems that make up Wellington’s city centre I parked near Lambton Quay, one of the main streets that runs nearly the entire length of the CBD. 

It was starting to get late, and the place was unusually quiet. I walked for a few blocks and enjoyed the sights and sounds of a city at night, occasionally accompanied by groups of inebriated youths who all spoke in a gibberish sort of slur. I walked a little longer, eventually arriving back at my car whereupon I made the decision to go insearch of my hotel and the hope that the restaurant would still be open, or at least the bar!

Aotearoa, Palmerston North, Travel

Palmerston North

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Palmerston North City Library – Buy 

My journey to Palmerston North was undertaken in bright sunshine, something I hadn’t seen in some days. After leaving Waiōuru I drove through Taihape, Mangaweka, Cheltenham and Fielding, arriving in Palmerston North in the early afternoon. 

Before finding my accommodation, I stopped in The Square and went for a walk around. Located in the very centre of the city, The Square is 17 hectares of land that features monuments, fountains, art work and picnic areas. At one end was a large Plaza while the other end featured the usual arrangements of shops that you might expect to find in a city centre. The Square was large with small pockets of people scattered around enjoying the warm, sunny day. For a long time, I couldn’t work out what it was, however something didn’t seem right. Then it struck me, that was exactly what was wrong. It was large and open but there simply wasn’t anyone there! In a larger city, it would be filled with people but here in Palmerston North it almost seemed too big. Almost as no one was really sure what to use it for. 

For a short time I walked the streets surrounding the Square before deciding to find my accommodation and a bite to eat.

Aotearoa, Tangiwai, Travel, Whangaehu River

Tangiwai

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Tangiwai – Buy 

10 kilometres west of the town Waiōuru in the central North Island, I arrived at a place called Tangiwai. The location of New Zealand’s worst railway accident where 151 died.

Having read a lot about the famous accident, it was a place I was very much looking forward to seeing. So, it was with intrigue and a touch of excitement that I parked my car and went for a look around. As I got out of the car, light rain began to fall and for the next half hour I wandered around the various information boards that detailed the events that took place on Christmas Eve, 1953. With the light rain that was falling and the grey, overcast sky, the place had a lonely, sombre feeling.  

The tragedy was caused when part of a carter wall containing a lake on the volcano Mount Ruapehu collapsed and a torrent of water surged down the Whangaehu River. Moments before the Wellington to Auckland express train arrived at the Tangiwai bridge, it had been damaged by the fast moving lahar and the bridge collapsed when the train began to cross it. Of the 285 passengers aboard the train, 151 died. To this day it remains New Zealand’s worst Railway accident.

Aotearoa, Otoko, The Mangawhero River, Travel

The Mangawhero River

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The Mangawhero River – Buy 

Leaving Parikino, I headed for the town of Raetihi which is close to the Tongariro National Park. That morning the rain had been heavy and while it was starting to ease it had left the nearby rivers high and fast flowing. I had been following the path of the Mangawhero River and I stopped near a bridge now to view it as it made its way through the valley. 

Later on, I read that the name Mangawhero comes from the Maori word manga meaning “stream” and whero meaning “red”. Looking at the photos I had taken earlier in the day, that seemed to make sense.

Aotearoa, Parikino, Travel, Whanganui

Parikino

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Parikino Lookout – Buy 

Not far from Whanganui, I passed through the small settlement of Parikino where there was once a pā site. Dating back to the 1840’s and situated on the flat bank of the Whanganui River, the pā was used as fortification against rival war parties. I had a short look around before rejoining State Highway 4 and continuing on to the Parikino Lookout which had views across the surrounding valley’s.

Frankton, Kawarau River, Queenstown-Lakes District, The Remarkables, Travel

The Remarkables

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The Remarkables – Buy 

The next day, I moved accommodation from Queenstown to Frankton as I needed to be closer to the airport. I was flying to the North Island early the following day, so I figured being a short distance from the airport would make life easier first thing in the morning. I was staying at the La Quinta Hotel and after checking-in and exploring my room for a few minutes, which included turning all the switches on and off to see what they did, I went for a walk. It was late in the day and a big bank of clouds was rolling in over The Remarkables and the Kawarau River, threatening to rain.

Kelvin Heights, Queensland, Queenstown-Lakes District, The Remarkables, Travel

Kelvin Heights & The Remarkables

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Kelvin Heights and The Remarkables – Buy 

At Arrowtown I took Malaghans and Gorge Road (through Arthurs Point) to Queenstown. The hills were covered in clouds and the lake was darker than expected with patches of strong wind gusts creating a choppy surface in the distance. There can be no doubt that the scenery around Queenstown is quite stunning however the lake is something just as special. People often comment about the unique colour of Lake Wakatipu, which is created by glacial dust from crushed rocks falling into the lake from rivers at the head lake I had read.  

As special as the scenery is, navigating the town can be something of a nightmare and deciding I couldn’t face the overcrowded town centre, I headed straight for my accommodation looking across the lake to the suburb of Kelvin Heights and The Remarkables.

Arrowtown, Central Otago, Queenstown-Lakes District, Travel

Arrowtown

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Autumn on the Arrow River – Buy 

Back in autumn I was fortunate enough to spend some time in Arrowtown. I say fortunate because I wasn’t meant to be there at all. I had planned to spend some time near Christchurch, but my accommodation was unexpectedly cancelled. So, I had to choose an alternative destination and Arrowtown was it. What a joy the town is during autumn when the colour takes hold.

Alexandra, Central Otago, Conroys Dam

Conroys Dam

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Skull in long grass – Buy 

Is it just me or is there something fascinating about old animal skulls? After leaving  Butchers Dam, I ventured the short distance up the road to Conroys Dam. An historic gold mining site that was dammed in 1935 for the Last Chance Irrigation Scheme to provide irrigation for orchards on the Conroy and Earnscleaugh flats. Having arrived, I enjoyed a pleasant amble around the conservation area, which is where I spotted an old animal skull in the long grass. An object I found most captivating I must admit. For a moment I considered taking it with me but being stuck by a moment of clarity, I realised it wouldn’t fit on the mantelpiece. A while later, I continued on to Alexandra, skulless, yet knowing my wife would be a little happier with my decision.

Alexandra, Butchers Dam, Central Otago

Butchers Dam

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Butchers Dam – Buy 

Am I alone in thinking that driving New Zealand roads isn’t the majestic, relaxing pastime it once was? All too often the journey is filled with morons with caravans who drive at 20 km/h an hour, idiots in campervans who seem to be permanently lost and Leaf drivers who pull out in front of you and drive like they are at the front of the parade. Then, just as you break free from this challenge to your patience you come across a 10 kilometre stretch of road that is reduced to 30km/h and a single lane, just so 6 guys can fill in a pothole. 

Thus it was that I found myself on a stunning Sunday afternoon in mid-January, driving in a long line of traffic through Alexandra’s dry, rocky and dramatic landscape, slowly losing the will to live! By the time I reached a place called Butchers Dam, with 10 kilometres until Alexandra, my sanity couldn’t take it any more, so I called in at Flat Top Hill Picnic and Conservation Area and went for a stroll around the lake.

Owaka, Purakaunui Falls, The Catlins

The Purakaunui Falls

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The Purakaunui Falls – Buy 

Heading back to Dunedin, I decided to detour back through the Catlins and stop off at Purakaunui Falls. The falls have long been an iconic image of the Catlins and have appeared on everything from book covers to stamps and can be found south of Owaka, within the Purakaunui Scenic Reserve. 

The walk to the falls was short but delightful as the track wound its way through the podocarp and beech forest, accompanied by the Purakaunui River. The falls themselves are an impressive 20 metres high as the river cascades over three tiers of rock before flowing through the Catlins and out into Purakaunui Bay.

Golden Bay, Oban, Stewart Island

Oban

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Golden Bay in Oban– Buy 

If there is one thing I would recommend doing, it’s visiting Stewart Island and staying the night in Oban. While there, you can hike the Rakiura Track, dive with Great White Sharks, visit Ulva Island or get some of the country’s best fish and chips and eat them over looking Halfmoon Bay.

Aotearoa, Riverton, Southland, Travel

Riverton

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Riverton – Buy 

Leaving Gore I drove through Mataura before continuing on to Edendale, Darce and Rakahouka. From there, I continued on State Highway 99 and travelled through Wallacetown and Wrights Bush, which eventually led me to my destination of Riverton.  I parked my car near the town bridge, went for a short walk and realised two things. The first being that Riverton is a charming town, and the second being that it occurred to me, that I didn’t have any particular reason to be there.

Gore, Southland, Travel

Gore

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Gore Railway Station – Buy 

I made my way to Gore, New Zealand’s Country Music capital, the world capital for Brown Trout Fishing, home to Sergeant Dan the Creamoata Man, Hokonui Moonshine and the Eastern Southland Gallery. Earlier, having left Tautuku, I had double headed back to Owaka and taken the Owaka Valley Road to Clinton. From there I passed through the towns of Wairuna, Waipahi, Arthurton, Pukerau and McNab before crossing the Mataura River and arriving in Gore, ready for a bite to eat and wander around the town where there seemed to be lots of hanging baskets and no traffic lights.

Tautuku, The Catlins, Travel

Tautuku

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Tautuku Estuary Walkway – Buy 

I arrived at the Tautuku Walkway late in the afternoon as the sun was dropping in the sky and the evening was drawing closer. A short 30 minute walk, the track began on an old sawmilling road and changed to a board-walk that led through podocarp forest and out on the estuary flats. I stood and took in the silence before heading back to the car. I was glad I’d stopped.

Owaka Valley, Tawanui, The Catlins, Travel

Tawanui

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The Catlins River – Buy 

After arriving in Owaka, I continued south on the Southern Scenic Route, State Highway 92. I turned right onto Catlins Valley Road, right onto Morris Saddle Road, then left which eventually brought me to the Tawanui Camping in the Owaka Valley. From there, I found the beginning of a walk along The Catlins River. Something that was a true delight.

Gimmerburn, Maniototo, Travel

Gimmerburn

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Gimmerburn Hall – Buy 

Leaving the town of Waipiata, 15 kilometres along the road I came across Gimmerburn and a wonderful old hall. I loved it instantly! Later on I read the ‘burn’ name comes from the Scottish word for stream which was named on a survey map, created in 1850 by John Turnbull Thomson.

Maniototo, Travel, Waipiata

Waipiata

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Waipiata rail bridge – Buy 

I arrived in the small town of Waipiata in the Maniototo close to midday. The traffic coming from Central Otago had been surprisingly light and having parked close to where the Railway Station used to stand in the centre of town, I realised I was ready to go for a stroll and stretch my legs.

Glenorchy, Glenorchy Walkway, Queenstown-Lakes District, Travel

Glenorchy

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Glenorchy Walkway – Buy 

A few years ago I stayed in Glenorchy for almost a week, it was quite delightful. In fact, I was greatly taken by the whole area. I’ve been there many times and every time it doesn’t fail to disappoint. One of the truly magic places to visit is the Glenorchy Walkway with its views of Mt Earnslaw, Mt Alfred and the surrounding ranges. The boardwalk traverses the wetlands just north of Glenorchy and is filled native birds that call the lagoon home. It’s very splendid.

Central Otago, Cromwell, Lake Dunstan, Travel

Cromwell

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Lake Dunstan near Cromwell – Buy 

I drove to Cromwell along the shores of Lake Dunstan. It really was a picture to behold. The lake was still and clear with the surrounding, snow covered hills reflecting in the cool, lake water. All along the shore, people were packing up campsites at the end of the long weekend. As I continued on towards Cromwell I passed roadside stalls that were advertising pine cones, honey, and horse poo, while orchards offered seasonal fruit, vegetables and nuts. The closer I got to Cromwell, the busier the traffic became till at last I found myself in a queue for petrol. If there was ever a sign that the long weekend was coming to an end, this was surely it.

Central Otago, Luggate, Travel

Luggate

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The Red Bridge – Buy 

The next day I headed for Luggate. Another of those small South Island towns that had developed during the Otago Gold Rush of the 1860’s as miners made their way inland in search of alluvial gold, fame and fortune. The day was still with clear blue skies as far as the eye could see while all the surrounding peaks were covered in snow and the ground lay frozen. The lakes of both Wanaka and Hawea looked tranquil, serene and undisturbed as I passed them. Having the road to myself, when added to my surroundings, the drive was calm and relaxing, almost peaceful. In fact, it wasn’t until I was close to Lake Hawea township that I came across other traffic. This annoyed me somewhat. In the short time I had been on the road I had started to consider it my own private highway and now discovering I had to once again share it, I was a little displeased. So, I turned to the radio for comfort. 

A short while later I reached my destination of Luggate. I had read that there was a red bridge of some significance in the area which I felt obligated to see. After a short argument with my wifi connection and Google Maps, I located it not far away, spanning the Clutha River. Listed as a local icon, the Luggate Grandview Bridge is on the local council’s historic register. It was opened on October 28, 1915, and has been described as ‘one of the most attractively proportioned steel truss road bridges in the country.’  I stood looking at it for a few moments watching cars and campervans slowly make their way across, secretly hoping that it would suddenly collapse in front of me. Making for a very drymatic and historic photo. However, since I had to drive back across it to get to Luggate, I decided I was thankful it was made of such sturdy construction and that it could collapse at a different time, when it would disrupt my own travel plans. It was around this point in my thinking that I noticed my fingers and toes were growing extremely cold and that I wasn’t much of a bridge enthusiast. So, I headed for my car and pointed it in the direction of Luggate and further on, Cromwell.

Haast, Haast Past, Mount Aspiring National Park, Travel

The Haast Pass

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Snow on the Haast Pass– Buy 

As I once again followed the Haast River along State Highway 6 (the Haast Pass-Makarora Road), it was at a place called Greenstone Creek that I decided that the rain wasn’t going to stop anytime soon. By the time I got to a place called Harris and Glitterburn Creek I noticed the rain seemed to be getting harder and at Roy’s Creek the river levels seemed a lot higher than earlier. Still, I pressed on back to Makarora, past waterfalls that had names such as Depot, Roaring Billy, Thunder, Diana and Fantail before the steep ascent through the top of the Haast Pass. It was then that the rain turned to snow. Not more than three hours earlier the same road had been covered in nothing more than rain. Now, it was covered in snow, thick mountain snow with large snowflakes that were settling quickly on the ground. Just before the summit of the pass I reached several vans that had stopped and at the summit itself, under the trees a gathering of vans and four-wheels drives were celebrating the winter snowfall with a liquid afternoon tea. Not being able to resist, I stopped for a bit and enjoyed the thick, new fallen snow that covered the pass. It almost seemed impossible to believe that this was the same place I’d driven through, earlier in the day. Late in the afternoon as I arrived back in Makarora the valley was surrounded with snow while beyond the mountains the sun was starting to set. It was all rather pretty.

Haast, Haast Past, Makarora, Mount Aspiring National Park, West Coast

Haast

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Haast – Buy 

In the morning it was raining and a light dusting of snow covered the surrounding mountains. The rain had started sometime overnight and it had been pretty hard ever since. After shuffling around my room and sorting myself for the day, I loaded my car and set off for the small West Coast town of Haast. A drive that was around 80 kilometres and would take me over the Haast Pass, a mountain pass in the Southern Alps of the South Island. 

The journey to Haast took me just over an hour and it rained all the way. In fact, the closer to the West Coast I got, the harder it rained. By the time I reached the hustle and bustle of Haast, the rain was torrential. 
I ate lunch in the car by the bridge and contemplated why people might want to live in Haast. With the rain showing no sign of stopping and Haast having very little hustle and no bustle, I headed back to Makarora.

Blue Pools, Haast Past, Makarora, Mount Aspiring National Park, Travel

Makarora & The Blue Pools

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Track to the Blue Pools – Buy 

I drove on to Makarora, a place I hadn’t been to in over thirty years. In my early teens, as a family we had taken a holiday up the West Coast of the South Island and we’d stopped in places like Makarora and Haast. I vaguely recall staying in Haast, yet try as I might I couldn’t for the life of me remember visiting Makarora. 

As I headed along Stage Highway 6 the sight of Lake Wanaka gave way to the braided Makarora River which starts life in the Southern Alps Mountain Range and flows into the head of Lake Wanaka. Before long I was passing farmland that had been saturated with recent rain and surrounded by peaks that formed part of the Southern Alps, arriving in the tiny settlement of Makarora West and Wonderland. This was going to be my base for the next few days, however upon arrival and after carefully studying a sign in the reception window I discovered that I was a tad early with check-in not available for several hours.

With a bit of time to spare, I pointed the car in the direction of the famous Blue Pools in the Mount Aspiring National Park and set off with the comforting thought that it was a sunny day and I could take my time. I had read that what makes the Blue Pools so striking is the deep, clear water that flows from the Makarora River. Tucked among mature beech and podocarp forest, it is listed as one of the Department of Conservations best short walks in New Zealand. So, you can imagine my disappointment when I arrived at the car park for the Blue Pools only to find a large sign saying the two swing bridges that lead to the Blue Pools were closed due to the bridges having reached the end of their life. It also went on to advise that while the track was open, access to the Blue Pools wasn’t possible. Not wanting to waste a good bush walk, the best I could figure was that a walk through the forest would still be nice and rivers are always pleasant to watch, so I happily set off following the track into the bush. For the next 20 minutes I ambled, I strolled and wandered, listening to the birds, eventually reaching the river and the first swing bridge which was in fact closed and impassable.

I had a look around the river bank for a while, the river was swift and a lovely turquoise colour which hinted at what the Blue Pools must be like. A sign on the bridge warned people not to attempt to cross the river. Clearly the Blue Pools would have to wait for another day. I found my way back to my car and headed back to Makarora and Wonderland. 

Albert Town, Lake Hawea, Travel, Wanaka

Lake Hawea

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Lake Hawea – Buy 

Just before the final drive into Wanaka you arrive at the State Highway 6 turnoff to Lake Hawea, and the Haast Pass which eventually takes you all the way to the West Coast of the South Island. Having left Alexandra earlier that day, and after passing through the towns of Clyde and Cromwell, I had found myself wanting to stretch my legs and had considered stopping off at the National Transport and Toy Museum which is just after the town of Luggate on the way to Wanaka. I was also tempted to call in to Puzzling World, another tourist attraction on the way to Wanaka that features an outdoor maze and multiple rooms filled with optical illusions. Puzzling world was started by Stuart and Jan Landsborough in 1973 when they sold their house and brought a barren piece of land on the outskirts of Wanaka (which had a population of just 800 people at the time) and told everyone they were going to build a lifesize maze made out of wooden planks. Everyone quite rightly thought they were crazy, however before Covid 19 hit in 2020, the maze was drawing 200,000 visitors a year. Which just goes to show that people will happily pay $27.50 to voluntarily get themselves confused and lost!

Resisting the temptation to stop at some of the local tourist attractions, I took the Haast Pass turn off and followed State Highway 6 towards Albert Town Lake Hawea and my final destination of Makarora. It only took a few moments to reach Albert Town. A place that isn’t really a town at all. To me, the name sounds like it should be an historic gold mining town or a settlement fashioned on the American West that is filled with saloon’s that have hitching posts out the front. In fact, it is little more than an oversized housing development that started in farmland to satisfy the need for more accomodation in the area. After Albert Town is Lake Hawea. With a town at the foot of the lake, Hawea is quickly becoming an alternative holiday destination to nearby Wanaka and Queenstown. An ominous sign to anyone who enjoys its tranquillity. The lake itself is fairly impressive as it’s the ninth largest in the country, it is 35 km in length, it covers 141 km²  and is 392 metres deep. Which makes it a pretty decent place to visit all things considered. I carried on State Highway 6 which followed the line of the lake, occasionally stopping at viewing points to take in the scenery, eventually reaching the head of the lake where the road passed between the mountains and for a brief time I travelled alongside the head of Lake Wanaka before leaving it behind heading into Makarora.

Alexandra, Aotearoa, Central Otago

Alexandra

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Little Valley Road – Buy 

In the morning I awoke with that feeling of dread that overcomes you the second you first open your eyes and realise the first few moments of the day are going to encompass dealing with your own stupidity. I’d forgotten to leave the heating on and as such my room was like a ice box. The only way to solve this problem was to either brave my way across to the heat pump and set it so the room temperature resembled a Caribbean Island as quickly as possible, or dash straight for the shower and the instant awakening from a blast of hot water. 

I braced myself and got up, heading for the shower, stopping only momentarily to flick both the kettle and heat pump on. A short while later, having readied myself for the day which included packing, I headed out into a fine Central Otago morning. The streets were quiet with the only signs of life being parents desperately trying to get their children into the family car for Saturday morning sport. I headed across town and five minutes later I was crossing the Manuherikia River and driving up Little Valley Road into the hills above Alexandra where I would be able to enjoy seeing the Alexandra Clock up close. The clock was installed in 1968 and has been keeping regular time ever since, apart from a brief period in 2020 when someone swung on the arms of the clock during lockdown and it stopped, forcing repairs to be made. To get to the clock there’s a very steep track that can be navigated, something I wasn’t prepared to do on this trip, however you do get to glimpse the clock as you head to the observation deck and lookout in Little Valley. I headed there now and found myself with views that simply are outstanding. As I took in the view in the crisp morning air I noticed most of the activity seemed to be coming from runners heading out of town onto one of the many dirt roads that surround the town. The smoke from chimneys started to drift across the valley and in the distance the traffic heading further inland seemed to already be growing. I suspected most people forget about views such as the one in front me.

Alexandra, Aotearoa, Central Otago

The Clutha At Alexandra

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The Clutha River at Alexandra  – Buy 

I spent the night in Alexandra, Central Otago, a small town with a population of 5,500 which is 195 km north-west of Dunedin at the junction of the Clutha and Manuherikia Rivers. Alexandra was founded during the Central Otago gold rush of the 1860s and has steadily grown to be a major junction point for people travelling to popular destinations further inland such as Cromwell, Wanaka and Queenstown. The town is a pleasant place that is always filled with both travellers and locals from the surrounding farms stopping off for refreshments and supplies on their way through which gives it a busy, bustling sort of feel. It also has a clock on the hillside that lights up at night which I rather like. However, since I had left Dunedin late in the day, it was already dark by the time I arrived at my motel. I’d have to wait to see the clock until morning.

Aotearoa, East Otago, Palmerston

East Otago From Puketapu

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East Otago from Puketapu – Buy 

This is the remarkable view from the top of Puketapu in Palmerston. Standing nearly 350 metres high, the summit offers stunning 360 degree views out to sea and inland to the Shag Valley. During World War II, local Palmerston town constable Bert Kelly ran up Puketapu every morning in full uniform to watch for enemy ships.

Ida Valley, St Bathans, Travel

The Hawkdun Range

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The Hawkdun Range– Buy 

The amazing thing about Central Otago is that you can find yourself in some wonderfully isolated areas. On one occasion, having based myself in the Ida Valley, I spent a day driving roads I hadn’t been down before. My rule was simple, where possible I wanted to take turn-offs that would lead me to the unknown. 

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