The Remarkables

The Remarkables

Alexander Garvie’s career as a surveyor wasn’t particularly long, however he did achieve one remarkable accomplishment in his lifetime. British-born, Alexander Garvie left the English port of Gravesend on the ship Blundell, arriving in New Zealand in September 1848. Initially working as a carpenter and builder, Garvie retrained as a surveyor in the early 1850’s and went on to obtain the position of Assistant Surveyor in the Otago Regional Council. Taking part in many surveying developments in Otago and Southland, his most notable legacy is in naming The Remarkable mountain range in Queenstown. The story goes that during a reconnaissance survey in 1857, Garvie came into view of a spectacular and stunning mountain range that he exclaimed was “Remarkable.” Unfortunately Garvie he died only four years later in Dunedin, in 1861. For Alexander Garvie, his surveying career lasted less than 10 years but within that time he named a spectacular piece of South Island scenery.

The Remutaka Road

The Remutaka Hill Road

The Remutaka Hill road is a narrow and winding 14km stretch of state highway, north of Wellington that snakes its way from Upper Hutt, over Remutaka Hill to the Wairapapa. Now, I can tell you that when you find yourself stuck on the Remutaka Road, in a very long line of traffic that isn’t moving, you have lots of time to ponder. So, that’s just what I did and within the great many things that crossed my mind, one question I kept coming back to. Who was the first person to drive over this road? That question ruminated in my mind for quite some time and while I didn’t discover the answer, I did find out the interesting tale of the Greytown to Wellington train from September 1880.

It seems that on the 11th September the train left Greytown at 8:30am bound for Wellington city. After stopping at Cross Creek where a second locomotive was added for preceding hill climb, the train set off over the Remutaka Hill. All was going well until about 1200m from the summit at a point called Siberia Curve when suddenly, a massive gust of wind hit the train. Estimated at nearly 200km/hour, the fierce wind swept three carriages off the tracks into the gully below, killing four people and leaving debris scattered across the hillside. Fortunately, following the accident the brake van remained gripped to the track enabling the rear brakesman to uncouple the van and coast back down the hill to Cross Creek to get help.

Is Boating New Zealand’s favourite recreational activity?

Early Morning on a Bluebridge Ferry

If there’s one thing New Zealand has a long history with, it’s boats. From the early migrations of the Polynesians who reached the south-west corner of the Pacific between 1250 to 1300 AD, to famous people like Able Tasman and James Cook, New Zealanders do seem to enjoy boats. In fact, boating is New Zealand’s largest recreational activity with 1.9 million people participating in boating activities each year and it being a $2.9 billion dollar industry. According to 2023 statistics, there are more than 1,540,000 boats in New Zealand with an annual growth of an estimated 45,000 vessels per year. That’s not bad for a tiny nation in the south-west corner of the Pacific.

Outram Glen

The Taieri River at Outram Glen

Yesterday, on what was a stunning autumn day (it must be said), I was on my way to cover a rugby match in Outram between West Taieri and Toko when I found myself a few minutes early. Knowing that I had a good half an hour up my sleeve, I decided to call in to Outram Glen. A popular spot for picnicking and swimming on fine Dunedin days, it is also the start of the Outam to Lee Stream and Maungatua Summit track. An 8 kilometre (5 mile) walk along a tramping track that follows both the Taieri River and Lee Stream that takes around 3 hours (return). On this occasion, since I wasn’t feeling energetic enough for a solid  8 kilometre hike, I settled for sitting beside the river and admiring the autumn colours.

Kerikeri Mission Station

Kerikeri Mission Station

Finding myself within 20 or so kilometres of the Kerikeri Mission, I couldn’t resist and took a detour. The plan being to see the oldest European buildings in the country which I must admit, I was looking forward to seeing. I had read that both the stone store and wooden house were set in an enchanting riverside location in a sleepy basin, the two buildings sitting on a riverbank, surrounded by orchards and flowerbeds. It really was a tranquil, peaceful setting.  

Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead

Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead

Fortunately when I passed by the museum was open – although it was hard to tell. With the entrance on a busy highway, I wandered how many people had driven past without even knowing it was open. However, on this day it was and I was extremely pleased as it meant I could spend all morning wandering around the backyard of an original Kiwi innovator such as Ernest Hayes and the famous Hayes Engineering Works, Museum and Homestead.

Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo 

This is another South Island location that is popular in the summer months, Lake Tekapo. The first sheep farm in the area dates back to 1857 which was owned by John and Barbara Hay on the shores of Lake Tekapo. Soon after, a hotel was established in 1861 before a ferry was set up to cross the Tekapo River. These days it’s a popular holiday and tourist destination in the MacKenzie Basin.

Love Is In The Air

Love is in the air.

If you go to Central Otago at the right time of year, one of the strange sights you’ll see are a numerous number of brides and grooms. Usually, they’re posing for photos in very public places with lots of people holding lighting gear and taking photos. However, I never know if they’re from an actual wedding party or if it’s a promotional shoot. This is a couple I found on the shores of Lake Wanaka.

Ross Creek Track Waterfall

Here’s short video I forgot about!

Ross Creek Track Waterfall

The other week I went wandering along some of the bush tracks in Leith Valley, in North Dunedin. I started at the entrance to the tracks that start off Rockside Road and head into the bush from there. The stream that runs down from Ross Creek Reservoir and links up with the Water of Leith was on the low side meaning a few of the small waterfalls were easily accessible. While I was there I made a short view which I then forgot about until yesterday. I hope you enjoy it. 

Queens Garden and Vogel Street

The corner of Queens Garden and Vogel Street.

Once upon a time the streets around Queens Garden and Vogel Street in Dunedin were some of the busiest in the country. Close to the city docks, the warehouse precinct as it became known developed into the heart of Dunedin’s wholesale trade. With some of the industries in the area being built during or immediately following the Otago gold rush, some of the older more imposing buildings are a direct result of the wealth of gold brought into the city.

Welcome To Autumn

Autumn in Dunedin

Here in this part of the world it’s that lovely time of year when all the colours of trees start to change. The sun is now a fraction lower in the sky, the mornings and evenings are becoming a tad colder with a definite autumnal feel to the start of each day. Around the city, the autumn colour palette of warm yellow undertones mixed with oranges, reds, ochre and olive colours is starting to appear. Before long the inner city will be covered in leaves.

The Tragedy of William Larnach

Larnach’s Castle

When it comes to Larnach’s Castle, where do you start? It could be with the fact that it’s not a castle at all, or it could be with the castle rumoured to be haunted by William Larnach himself or even the story of the rise and fall of William Larnach as a businessman in Otago. He rose to prominence as a banker at the time of the gold rush and went on to have many successes in politics, business and other industries before losing much of his fortune and falling on harder times. He built a grand house on the Otago Peninsula, was married three times, had six children and finally committed suicide in Parliament in Wellington via a gun in 1898. The tragedy even had its own intriguing twist with details pointing towards the tragedy resulting from an affair between Larnach’s third wife Constance and his youngest son Douglas.

The Blue Pools of Makarora

The Makarora River

The track across the two swing bridges that lead to the Blue Pools in Makarora have been closed since May last year. That’s due to the bridges needing repairs and ongoing maintenance work so they last. Recently, I read a news article on this very subject that outlined how visitors are ignoring the closure and making their way through to the Blue Pools anyway. This can be done one of two ways. Firstly, simply climbing over the rather large and securely fastened fence that blocks access to the bridges. Secondly, pushing through the bush and wading through the rather rapid and swift river over to the opposite bank to the pool blue. Either way, the many tourists (into the hundreds) who venture to this wonderful area end up destroying the very scenery they’ve come to see. 

Harington Point Gun Battery

Harrington Point Military Complex

The other month I went for a wander and explore at the Harington Point gun emplacements on Otago Peninsula. The site was first constructed in response to the threat of a Russian invasion in 1885 following Anglo–Russian tensions in Afghanistan. Anyway, while I was there, after scrambling up and down banks and pushing through gorse, I found one of the buildings that leads to a stairwell. From that point, it accesses other parts of the complex including subterranean communications tunnels, bunkers, observation points and a magazine and engine room.

Moeraki Village

Moeraki Village

This is right beside Fleur’s Place in the small village of Moeraki. A place that is known for its outstanding seafood cuisine. However, due to the fact that I don’t have a strong stomach for shellfish, calamari, octopus, shrimp, squid, sole, flounder or any other food source that lives in the ocean, I won’t be eating there any time soon. By all accounts it’s very good with a delightful setting to boot.

A Mediterranean Garden

Dunedin’s Mediterranean Garden 

Back in my younger days, when I was a lot less worldly and knowledgeable than I am now, I never liked spending time at a Botanical Garden. I simply couldn’t see the point. Why on earth would I want to spend time walking around looking at plants! Now, many years later I’ve come to truly appreciate a slow, quiet amble in a peaceful, tranquil setting. One such location is the Mediterranean Garden at the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. I think it’s the view I like best. Although, I always seem to get slightly lost finding it and never fail to take a wrong turn upon leaving.

Queens Park in Whanganui

Queens Park in Whanganui

The other day I somehow found myself reading an article about the North Island city of Whanganui. It was written by one of these travelling news journalists who write paid advertisements about places that are published in the disguise of ‘news’. On this occasion after spending three or four days in the city, he concluded it was an ‘amazing place buzzing with creative energy that it’s the absolute highlight of any trip.’ Apparently he had visited museums, art galleries, parks and places of natural beauty, enjoying all the charm and friendliness that Whanganui offered. Well, I have to say that my experience of the city was the complete opposite. When I was there the weather was terrible, the main business district felt a tad neglected, my hotel wasn’t much better and everyone I met or spoke to seemed a little despondent. Now I’m sure Whanganui has some lovely spots but when it comes to being a ‘city buzzing with creative energy,’ from my experience, I would have to disagree.

Moody Morning In Dunedin

Corner of Moray Place and Princes Street

The previous evening a wonderful and very impressive thunder storm passed over the city. At some point it was accompanied with heavy rain and a great deal of wind. The next morning, while the thunder and lightning had passed, a set of heavy, dark clouds was left hanging over the city. The forecast for the day involved an awful lot of wind, more rain and a high of 10 or 11 degrees. Perfect conditions for those heading to the Pink concert that evening.

Moody Afternoon Over Dunedin.

A moody Monday afternoon.

On Monday afternoon I took a detour via the Otago Peninsula on the way home. It had been a fairly responsible day, weather wise that is. However around 4pm a large set of dark, heavy clouds started to roll in over Dunedin City from a south westerly direction. It was the kind of weather system that foretold of more ominous things to come in the way of wind, thunder, lightning and a lot of rain!

Ross Creek Reservoir

Ross Creek Reservior

If we’re being precise, this location isn’t actually Ross Creek Reservior. It’s just across the road near the northern entrance on Booth, Tanner and Wakari Roads. It does have a name, but I simply can’t remember it. The only things my notes say for this shot/day are ‘rocks are slippery when wet’ and ‘remember tripod next time.’ Clearly it was a day when I was thinking with great clarity and insight at my contemplative, psychological best.

Rockpools & Seaweed

Blackhead Rockpools

I ended up spending a delightful afternoon wading in rock pools at Blackhead Beach, just south of Dunedin. It was one of those warm, still, late summer days that reminded me with autumn on the horizon, days like this will be less and less common. So it was, I spent a few hours stumbling over stones and sploshing through rock pools as seaweed gently drifted on the tide. I have to admit, there’s something delightfully delicious about wading through rock pools in your bare feet on a warm afternoon.

Heading To The North Island

The Martinborough Hotel in the North Island

At the moment I’m currently planning my next trip. I’m heading to the North Island in about 6 weeks where I’ll spend some time exploring however I’m yet to settle on a specific location. At this stage I’ve got several ideas and a number of possibilities but I’m yet to fix anything. Any suggestions?   

Another Mystery Location

Careys Creek

This is another mystery location that I’m not 100% sure of. I’m thinking it’s Carey’s Creek which is north of Dunedin and runs near the Silver Peaks area through to Evandale Glen and out to the coast, I believe. I recall while detouring slightly off the track and coming across a sign that warned of hunters operating in the area. It got me wondering if I should be more worried about being attacked by wild animals or shot by the hunters who were hunting them. Either way, it was a lovely afternoon.    

A Mystery Location

Somewhere I don’t know!

There are some things I can tell you about this photo and there are some things I can’t. For example, I can tell you that I took it in the North Island of New Zealand, that it is somewhere near Paraparaumu or Waikanae and finally that it was a misty, rainy afternoon. What I can’t tell you is its exact location as I can’t for the life of me remember! I was hoping that if I looked on a map it might jog my memory, however that didn’t help at all!

The Haast River

State Highway 6 & The Haast River

The Haast River Bridges’ claim to fame is that it’s New Zealand’s longest, single lane bridge. It’s 750 metres in length, it was opened in 1962, it carries State Highway 6 across the Haast River and is often considered one of the most spectacular bridges in the country. Also, depending on which direction you’re heading, State Highway 6 and the Haast River Bridge either takes you to Fox Glacier, Franz Josef, Hokitika and further on to Greymouth or through the Haast Pass to Makarora. Either direction is amazingly spectacular and well worth the trip.

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